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TheUn-CorsetedBody
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Garmentsshouldveilthehumanform,andneithercaricatureit,notobliterateits
lines:thebodyshouldbedraped,andneithersewnupinasack,notstuckinthe
middleofabox:drapery,properlymanaged,isnotadeadthing,butaliving,one;
andifthisbelost,halfthepleasureoftheeyesincommonlifeislost.Youmust
specificallybearthisinmind,becausethefashionablemillinerhaschieflyoneend
inview,howtohideanddegradethehumanbodyinthemostexpensivemanner.
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Ultimately,thePre-RaphaelitedressachievedwhattheBrotherhoodhoped
toachievethroughtheirart:byusingthepastthedresstranscendeditsowntime
andcreatedsomethingprofoundlynewandmodern.Thedressesthatfollowed
Pre-Raphaelitedressreferredtoitsgeneralmodernisingeffectratherthan
specificdetailsofmedievaloriginandregressivesocialpurposes.Asthe
historyoffashionshows,Pre-Raphaelitedressevolvedintoanaestheticdress,
abohemiancounter-fashiontea-gownstyleandrationaldress.Bythe1880s,
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artisticdress,backedupbythesocialandmedicalcampaigns,enteredgradually
thepublicsphere,andfinallyjoinedmainstreamfashionintheearlydecades
ofthe20thcentury.
Bibliography
Barringer,Tim.2012.ReadingthePre-Raphaelites.NewHaven:YaleUniversityPress.
Berman,Marshall.1982.AllThatIsSolidMeltsintoAir.TheExperienceofModernity.
NewYork:PenguinBooks.
Calvert,RobyneErica.2012.FashioningtheArtist:ArtisticDressinVictorianBritain
1848-1900.
PhD
thesis,
University
of
Glasgow.
www.theses.gla.ac.uk/3279/
(09.01.2018).
Coda,Harold.2011.ExtremeBeauty:TheBodyTransformed.NewYork:TheMetropolitan
MuseumofArt.
Cunningham,PatriciaA.2003.Politics,Health,andArt.ReformingWomen’sFashion,
1850-1920.Kent:KentStateUniversityPress.
Davies,Mel.1982.“CorsetsandConception:FashionandDemographicTrendsinthe
NineteenthCentury”,inComparativeStudiesinSocietyandHistory,vol.24,no.4
(October),pp.611-641.
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WilliamMorris.“TheLesserArtsofLife”,inTheCollectedWorksofWilliamMorris:
WithIntroductionsbyHisDaughterMayMorris.Eds.WilliamMorrisandMayMorris.
Vol.22,HopesandFearsforArt;LecturesonArtsandIndustry.CambridgeLibrary
Collection2012,p.265.
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SeePamelaRadcliffe.Pre-RaphaeliteInfluencesonWomen’sDressintheVictorian
Era.Ph.D.dissertation,FloridaStateUniversity,1990;KenMontague.“TheAesthetics
ofHygiene:AestheticDress,Modernity,andtheBodyasSign”.JournalofDesign
History,vol.7,no.2(1994),p.92.
